![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Got the rest of the body glued up yesterday and cut today. So I might have to take a trip to the lumber store at some point. I've got a piece of hickory but was planning on that as more of an experiment. I've got enough to do it in ambrosia maple but I want the grain to be pretty clear to get it closer to the original look. I've got a nice piece of quartersawn maple but it's short. I've got enough basswood to do it but eeeeh idk. It'd be stupid difficult to try and have the CNC do this with all that texture on the front of the guitar, so I'm most likely cut a template for this in MDF and route the profile by hand.ĥ0/50 on what I'll use for the rest of the wood on this. Frog basically carry the carve all the way to the back, which is ugly and I'd imagine makes it more awkward to play.Ĭurrent plan is to basically extract the actual 'guitar' shape in the back carve. Most cheap copies, and even some nicer ones, as well as the J. I modeled it like 1/2" deep and I don't think that's necessary.ĭoing something a little different with the back. The bridge pickup on most models basically sits on the top of the guitar with almost no recess because of how tall the non-recessed floyd is. I'm going to take some more measurements before I commit to the depths. Could be a limitation of the GRBL controller. Opted to try it in Fusion 360 this time because Aspire REALLY didn't like all the polylines when it was doing the contouring procedure and the bit was getting hot. Luckily I've got a pretty nice OFR kit laying around so besides finishing products, all I'll need to outsource is the pickup. It's a little thin and fragile right now. Needs sanding and fine work now but I'll wait till it's glued up. The blank wasn't thick enough to get those deep enough, so they'll likely be the surface I'll use to route them full depth by hand. So next phase was neck, pickup and trem routes. I considered another pass with a 1/8" ballnose but the simulation didn't show any appreciable increase in detail. It's a Shapeoko 3XXL with an upgrade lead screw Z axisįirst phase of fine carving. Either of the two would suit me tone-wise. I *think* I've got a suitable piece of mahogany to do that, if not, it'll be poplar instead. Top came out ~3/4" thick, so the back will be ~1" thick. My CNC clearance is not great, so I was weary of carving a 2" thick blank, so i decided to carve the top then I'll glue it to the back. Luckily I had a billet of maple that was suitable (and ironically, reclaimed from a church rec room! ). I'm on a pretty much non-existent budget right now, so the plan was to use whatever I have in stock. I left a few detail to be done by hand just out of not knowing how well the program would be able to carve them but after seeing it in action, I might add more detail to the model if I did one again. So the goal was something halfway in between. ESP did a remake a few years back (that Lynch himself plays often now) that's actually a much better guitar with a much nicer relief but a little too real vs. Spec-wise, I was looking to get this very close to the original J. Spent a week learning the program and sketched up a pretty decent Skull and Bones carve. With all that free time, I got a copy of Vectric Aspire, which is more sign-making oriented, which makes it better at 3D carving. Have been considering a Lynch-esque build for a while but no practical way to do it in Fusion 360. Lynch is absolutely my #1 favorite guitar player of all time even before that, and I also had a copy of 'Nightmare on Elm Street 3' as a kid, so THAT guitar was always prominent to me.Īnyway, fast forward to COVIDpocalyse and I've had free time on my hands. I think I told the story a few years back about the time I got a chance to play the 'Skull and Bones' back stage at a Lynch Mob show (~2004?). Forgive the copy-pasta as I try to get this thread caught up to date. ![]()
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